Aug 4 2009

Ibanez Serial Numbers

This information is quoted from our Gearwiki. Please contribute your knowledge.

DATING IBANEZ GUITARS

An Ibanez serial number can tell you two things, year of manufacture and factory (or country) of manufacture. There is no master list to correlate to a model number, these are consecutive serialized numbers only. If you’re trying to figure out what model something is from the serial number, figure out what year it is then go to the catalog library for the corresponding year (or year before or after) to find the model. Some models will never be found in the catalogs, that’s just the way it is.

On typical Ibanez serial numbers the first 2 digits will indicate year, or the first digit will indicate the last digit of the year, but there are also some that indicate no year at all.

This page is for dating Ibanez guitars built in Japan only. See the Factories heading a few paragraphs down for little info on guitars produced elsewhere.

Before 1975 Ibanez did not put serial numbers on their guitars. Most just bore a neck plate simply marked Japan. The only way to date these guitars is to find out what years they were available and then comparing all the minute details like scripts, contours, and inlay variances that only the hardcore vintage gurus know.

1975 – Present

This old style serial number will either be on the neck plate or impressed into the back of the headstock. It consists of a letter, A – L, followed by a 6 digit number. The letter stands for the month, A for January etc., the first 2 digits will be the year, 76 is 1976, 96 is 1996, the last 4 digits will be the consecutive production number for that months production, 1356 would be the 1356th guitar produced that month. This form of serial numbering is still used today on guitars where the number is impressed into the back of the headstock. A761356 – The 1356th guitar produced in January ’76

1987 – Present

These serial numbers will either be on the neck plate or on a serial sticker affixed to the back of the headstock, with some models still following the impressed old school serial numbers shown above. There are many variables of numbering through these years and between different models and are broken down into 3 categories, stickers, plates, and the impressed numbers that follow the old school style detailed above.

HEADSTOCK SERIAL STICKERS

1987 – 1996
Continue reading


Jul 30 2009

Rickenbacker Serial Numbers

From Gearsecurewiki

This information and much more can be found at our gear wiki. Please contribute your knowledge.

Jump to: navigation, search

The serial numbers for Rickenbacker guitars and basses can be found engraved on the output jack, neck plate, or bridge. It usually has two separate numbers: a date code consisting of two digits which may be letters or numbers, and a number. The number is a serial number for the year.

1960-1996

First letter denotes year. Second letter denotes month.

Letter Year Month
A1961January
B1962February
C1963March
D1964April
E1965May
F1966June
G1967July
H1968August
I1969September
J1970October
K1971November
L1972December
M1973January
N1974February
O1975
P1976March
Q1977April
R1978May
S1979June
T1980July
U1981August
V1982September
W1983October
X1984November
Y1985December
Z1986

After 1986, Rickenbacker serial numbers go to a numerical year indicator; the first number indicates year. The same letter system is used for the month.

Number Year
01987
11988
21989
31990
41991
51992
61993
71994
81995
91996

1997-1999

It appears that for 1997-1999 and perhaps into 2000, a different format was used. The month code started coming first, followed by a number for the year. The numbers are shown in the table below.

Number Year
01997
11998
21999
32000

1999-Present

Sometime in 1999, Rickenbacker started switching to a slightly different system. In the new system, the lone number represents the last two digits of the year. 1999 becomes 99, 2004 becomes 04, and so on. The first two numbers of the number part represent the week of the year that the instrument was made.

For example, take the number 99 28926. The 99 indicates that the instrument was made in 1999 and the 28926 tells us that it was made during the 28th week of that year.

External Links


Jul 30 2009

Marshall Amplifiers Serial Numbers

The following information is from our Gearwiki. Please contribute your knowledge.

Marshall has used three serial number systems since 1969.

Marshall amps began featuring aluminum back panels in 1969. Serial numbers began appearing stamped on the back panels in July 1969.

Note that some models produced from 1979-81 had serial numbers stamped on the front panel (to the left of the power switch).

1969-1992

Marshall used a coding system that provided (a) model, (b) serial number, and (c) manufacture date. This sequence of (a)(b)(c) began in 1969 and was valid through 1983.

In 1984, the order of the serial number components changed to (a)(c)(b), but the method used to determine the values for (a) and (c) remains the same.

The first part of the serial number grouping determines the model of the chassis.

CodeModel
A/ or /A200 watt
RIReissue Series
S/ or S/A50 Watt
SB/ or SB/ASuper Bass – 100 Watt
SL/ or SL/ASuper Lead – 100 Watt
SP/Super PA
ST/ or ST/ATremolo – 100 Watt
T/ or T/ATremolo – 50 Watt

(b) Serial number – The second part of the serial number is the five-digit serial number itself.

(c) Manufacture date – The last character determines the date of manufacture. Since A was used in both 1969 and 1970, Marshall decided that 1971 would start with C. To avoid confusion with the numerals 1 and 0, Marshall elected to skip the letters I and O. Also, for reasons not explained, there are no Q-dated amps. Z was used for two years. Here are the date codes:

Date CodeYear
A1969-1970
C1971
D1972
E1973
F1974
G1975
H1976
J1977
K1978
L1979
M1980
N1981
P1982
R1983
S1984
T1985
U1986
V1987
W1988
X1989
Y1990
Z1991-1992

1992-Present

After 1992, a bar code system was introduced.


Jul 30 2009

Fender Guitars Serial Numbers

The Following information is from our Gearwiki. Please contribute your own knowledge.

Fender has had several serial number schemes over the years. On top of that, the schemes are different depending on where the instrument was made.

Fender serial numbers are not strictly sequential. The only definitive way to date a Fender is to look at the dates on the neck, body, and pots.

Contents

[hide]

1950-1964

For Esquires, Broadcasters, and Telecasters, a unique numbering scheme was used until 1954, when Fender switched to a universal numbering system. The number is shown on the bridge plate.

Serial Numbers Years
0001 to 09991951-1952
1000 to 53001952-1954

For Precision Basses, a different system was used until 1955, overlapping some with the universal system. These numbers also appeared on the bridge plate.

Serial Numbers Years
100 to 4001951-1952
0001 to 09991952-1954
1000 to 20001953-1955

In 1954, Fender adopted a universal serial number system. These serial numbers appear on the neck plate of the instrument. In 1957/1958 some serial numbers started with a minus sign (“-”), or had a “0″ prefix before the number. Also in 1959/1960 some serial numbers were at the bottom of the neck plate instead of the usual top. Double stamped serial number plates were also produced (number on both front and back of the neck plate) in late 1957 to early 1959.

Serial Numbers Years
Up to 10,0001954-1956
10,000s1955-1956
10,000s-20,000s1957
20,000s-30,000s1958
30,000s-40,000s1959
40,000s-50,000s1960
50,000s-70,000s1961
60,000s-90,000s1962
80,000s-90,000s1963
90,000s-L10,000s1963

In late 1962 – late 1965, Fender produced instruments with an “L” prefix. These numbers were found on the neck plate.

Serial Numbers Years
L00001-L20000late 1962 to late 1963
L20000-L500001964
L55000-L999991965

In late 1965 the scheme changed yet again. The serial number was still located on the neck plate and a large script “F” could be found below the serial number.

Serial Numbers Years
100000-110000late 1965
180000-2000001966
180000-2100001967
210000-2500001968
250000-2800001969
280000-3000001970
300000-3300001971
330000-3700001972
370000-5200001973
500000-5800001974
580000-6900001975
690000-7500001976

In mid-1976, Fender moved the location of the serial number to the headstock.

Serial Numbers Years
76000001976-1977
800000s1979-1981

1977-Present

Finally, in mid-1977, Fender decided on a serial number scheme that carries on to today. The serial number can be found on the headstock. The decade can generally be determined by the serial number prefix. “S” means 1970′s, “E” means 1980′s, “N” means 1990′s, and “Z” means 2000. Note that Japanese Fenders can also carry the “N” and “E” prefixes, but their country of origin should be clearly marked on the headstock.

Serial Numbers Years
1000000-80000001976-1981
S100000s-S600000s1979-1982
S700000s-S770000s1977
S740000s-S800000s1978
S810000s-S870000s1979
S880000s-S980000s1980
S950000s-S990000s1981
E000000s-E100000s1979-1982
E200000s1982
E300000s-E310000s1983
E320000s-E390000s1984-1985
E400000s1984, 1985, 1987
E800000s1988-1989
E900000s1989-1990
N900000s1990
N000000s1990-1991
N100000s1991
N200000s1992
N300000s1993
N400000s1994
N500000s1995
N600000s1996
N700000s1997
N800000s1998
N900000s1999

Since 1990, the serial numbers have generally been kept consistent. There is the decade prefix, followed by the last number in the year. For example, 2004 would be Z4; 1998 would be N8. The American Deluxe series adds a “D” before the year prefix, so the previous examples would come out as DZ4 and DN8, respectively.

The Fender American Vintage Series forgoes the year prefix altogether and just has “V” plus five or six digits.

Additionally, some instruments made in 1990 were (presumably by mistake) given N9XXXXX serial numbers.

Mexican-Made Fenders

The first Mexican Fenders were made in 1990. They follow the same number scheme as American-made Fenders, except that they are prefixed with an “M”.

Japanese-Made Fenders

The first Japanese Fenders were made in 1982. All Fenders made in Japan are marked on the headstock as “Made in Japan” or (since 1997) “Created in Japan”.

Serial Numbers Years
JV + 5 digits1982-1984
SQ + 5 digits1983-1984
E + 6 digits1984-1987
A + 6 digits1985-1986
B + 6 digits1985-1986
C + 6 digits1985-1986
F + 6 digits1986-1987
G + 6 digits1987-1988
H + 6 digits1988-1989
I + 6 digits1989-1990
J + 6 digits1989-1990
K + 6 digits1990-1991
L + 6 digits1991-1992
M + 6 digits1992-1993
N + 6 digits1993-1994
O + 6 digits1993-1994
P + 6 digits1993-1994
Q + 6 digits1993-1994
S + 6 digits1994-1995
T + 6 digits1994-1995
U + 6 digits1995-1996
N + 5 digits1995-1996
V + 6 digits1996-1997

Sometime during 1997, all Japanese-made Fenders say “Crafted in Japan” on the headstock instead of “Made in Japan.” There is some overlap between serial numbers on these instruments, but the newer ones can be distinguished from the older ones based on the text.

Serial Numbers Years
A + 6 digits1997-1998
O + 5 digits1997-2000
P + 5 digits1999-2002
Q + 5 digits2002-2004
R + 5 digits2004-2005

Jul 30 2009

Warwick Bass Serial Numbers

The following is from our Gearwiki. Please contribute your own knowledge.

Warwick has had a consistent serial number scheme since its foundation in 1982.

A Warwick bass’s serial number can be found on its headstock. Until 1988, it could be found on top of the headstock. Between 1989 and 2007, it was placed between the machine heads on the back of the headstock. Since the end of 2007 it has been placed below the machine heads.

The serial number is a letter followed by a six-digit number and then a two-digit number. The letter represents the month the bass was made.

Letter Month
AJanuary
BFebruary
CMarch
DApril
EMay
FJune
GJuly
HAugust
JSeptember
KOctober
LNovember
MDecember

The last two digits represent the year the bass was made. 1994 becomes 94, 2003 becomes 03, and so on.

External Links


Jul 20 2009

G&L Serial Numbers

This information is from our gearwiki. Please contribute your own knowledge.

G&L has had two primary serial number schemes throughout its life.

It is important to note that G&L’s serial numbers are non-sequential. Batches of bridges and neck plates are made and then tossed into a bin. When building instruments, builders just grab a part out of the bin and build with it. However, the serial number can still give you a rough idea of when your instrument was made. For example, GF0025 is most likely not the 25th George Fullerton Signature made; in fact, it may not even be from “early” Fullerton production. It is also important to note that not all serial numbers were used because some bridges were defective.

Contents

[hide]

1980-1997

Originally, numbers of the form GXXXXXX were used for guitars and numbers of the form BXXXXXX were used for basses. The two notable exceptions to this are the “GF” and “BC” serial numbers, used for the George Fullerton Signature Model and the Broadcaster, respectively.

G&L’s website provides the first serial number used in each year up to 1992.[1]

Year First Guitar Serial # First Bass Serial # Location
1980G000530B000518Bridge
1981G003122B001917Bridge
1982G009886B008525Bridge
1983G011654B010382Bridge/Neck Plate
1984G013273B014266Neck Plate
1985G014690B016108Neck Plate
1986G017325B017691Neck Plate
1987G020241B018063Neck Plate
1988G023725B019627Neck Plate
1989G024983B020106Neck Plate
1990G026344B021788Neck Plate
1991G027163B023013Neck Plate
1992G029962B024288Neck Plate

1997-Present

G&L’s current serial number scheme, begun in late 1997, is of the form CLXXXXX, where CL stands for “Clarence Leo” (note that Leo Fender‘s full name was “Clarence Leonidas Fender”). This was changed one year later to the most current scheme of CLFXXXXX.

Another good resource for finding out about your serial number is the G&L Registry, linked below.

Other Notes

The best way to date a G&L instrument is to take off the neck. There should be a date on the body in the neck cavity and a date on the neck itself. Note that even this is not a perfect method, as necks and bodies could have been made weeks or even months before their use on an instrument.

External Links

References

  1. G&L Chronology. Accessed 2009-07-29.

Jul 19 2009

New site feature – Gearwiki

Just wanted to let you know we have a new feature to the a gearwiki. You can access it by links on the right, or at http://gearwiki.gearsecure.net. The gearwiki will become a reference site for knowledge for consumers and retailers looking for guidance on purchases.I know from experience that when a rare piece of gear comes into a store looking to sell a piece and the salespeople want it for it’s scarcity but don’t know what to price it at or buy it at, determining the right pricing can be near impossible.

Also, we’d like to get as much concrete and specific information to help authentication efforts. More and more, the public is asked to distinguish between the genuine article and a copy. I even saw counterfeit iPhones this week, so we know electronics are not immune to counterfeiting.

If you have any knowledge to contribute, please help make this as large a reference site as possible.


May 9 2009

Gibson Serial Numbers 1977-present

This information and more can be found in our Gearwiki. Care to contribute your own knowledge?

Gibson has been in business for over a hundred years, and has used several serial number systems in that time, many of which had inconsistencies which make accurate date identification tricky. Often other considerations must be taken into account. We’ll cover those as we come to them. In this article, we’re going to cover the current serial number format, in use since 1977. This system is in place across the board in all production facilities. This borrows heavily from the serial number guides on the Gibson sit, from the Blue Book, and other web sources.

For instruments built before 2005, The serial number is an 8 digit number impressed into the back of the headstock with “MADE IN USA” below. The Serial number is stamped before the finish is applied and is pressed into the wood. Often, a thick coating of paint and lacquer will make the serial number difficult to read. If you see plain wood through the serial number, it was stamped after finishing, and likely a counterfeit.

The pattern is:
YDDDYRRR

YY is the production year
DDD is the day of the year counted 1-365 (or 366 for leap year)
RRR is the factory ranking/plant designation number.

Continue reading


May 9 2009

Counterfeit and lawsuit instruments

Manufacturers will go to extreme lengths to protect their brands and trademarks. It is simply a matter of business. Unscrupulous manufacturers will make counterfeit instruments. Other established manufacturers will sometimes make competitive and comparable equipment, and sometimes come a little too close to the product that is already in the marketplace, and what results is a lawsuit.

Manufacturers need to look after their trademarks. Part of the reason behind this is to protect against a customer getting an inferior instrument thinking it is actually from the real brand. The net result of this situation is that the customer no longer trusts the brand, even though they didn’t even make the item in question.

To be clear, this is a different issue from patent infringement. Patents protect inventions, processes and formulas. Trademark refers to the visual shape of something, a logo, a design. In terms of guitars, the body shape and headstock shape. In terms of pedals, a unique housing (the circuit itself would be  patent issue). To look at other ends of the biz, the shape or color scheme of a mixer, the design of a microphone, or the look of a turntable would be the source of trademark infringement. Again, we’re focused on the aesthetics.

So let’s look at the counterfeit issue first. Think about money. If you were going to counterfeit money (don’t try this at home, really), you’d try to match paper, color, size, and every little detail that you can. One thing out of place, and it soon becomes apparent that this bill isn’t right.

Take a look at our first article on a counterfeit, the ’54 Goldtop Reissue. You’ll start picking out the details quickly. But if you aren’t familiar with a ’54 reissue, or the Les Paul in general, the counterfeit instrument looks fairly good.  The counterfeit’s primary aesthetics match very closely. The shape is pretty close to right, the headstock looks good except for the extra screw in the truss rod cover, the colors are off, but close. The functional details are different, the one-part bridge, the wrong pickups, the wrong control configuration.

But sometimes, the match is pretty good. We had a guitar once in our shop that was sold to us as an older Ibanez Jem, and we’re working up a page on it. We bought it in good faith, and even though we carry the same guitar new, we didn’t compare them. I think we were out of stock. Let’s be fair. Sometimes you get an employee who just doesn’t look very hard. I even once had a salesperson try out and buy our own amp once. They aren’t always that bright.

The thing about this Jem copy, though , is that it was old, the chrome was pitted, it had some knicks, it played good, and had good hardware. Not like this Les Paul counterfeit. None of us noticed it was a counterfeit for months, and by that time, we were out the money and we sold it for whatever we could get for it.

Point is, this one was very close, and it was a good guitar.

Counterfeit instruments often have to be just good enough, and usually sell for about a third or less than the real deal. They often get sold on eBay as the real thing, or on several fly-by-night web sites. There once was a “cheapguitarcenter.com” that had dozens of models of Les Paul, PRS, Fender.  They were shut down pretty quickly, and a few months later, we saw one of their guitars walk into the shop with somebody who thought he had a real Zakk Wylde model (the giveaway on this one is the colors really don’t match and the neck is finished, not raw) Les Paul. Poor guy was so bewildered he left it because he didn’t know what else to do with it.

That can give you some idea of how prevalent and widespread these things are. It is interesting to note that a counterfeit guitar is usually a playable instrument if the manufacturer actually wanted to make a brand and establish a company. They would probably sell on the market at about the price of a Mexican made Fender, which is a solid market niche. Often these come from China or a country that isn’t too interested in protecting international trademarks.

Here is the real important distinction, though. A counterfeit guitar will carry the brand name or logo of the guitar it is copying. In the case of some Paul Reed Smith counterfeits I’ve seen, the PRS logo is in a very different font from anything Paul Reed Smith has ever used. Don’t be fooled.

Buying a counterfeit guitar is always a loss.

Let’s turn to lawsuit guitars.

Lawsuit guitars are a different case. The most prominent recent example is the Paul Reed Smith Single Cut guitars. These debuted to the market to great fanfare for the elegant design and great playability. Gibson felt that the design of these was a little too close to that of the Les Paul, and in pressing the lawsuit, production halted.

Demand for these guitars and the value skyrocketed, as for several years it looked like they weren’t going to be made anymore, and the few that were on the market were going to be the rarest of the rare. Eventually, and I’m not sure why, the suit was dropped. These suits are quite complicated and political, so I won’t speculate. Paul Reed Smith was now once again able to produce their single-cuts.

Another famous example of lawsuit guitars is the late 70′s Ibanez copies of the Les Paul and Rickenbacker Bass. I’ve held each of these in my hands on several occasions, and they are very much spot on a recreation of their subject. Ibanez was well-established with their own models at this time, and trying to make it into the American market a bit more than they already were. They already had the Iceman and other designs, so finding a unique shape wasn’t an issue for them. Japan at the time was a haven for copyright and trademark infringement that is similar to what China is today. When these went to market, Ibanez was promptly and rightly sued by Gibson and Rickenbacker. The models were soon pulled, and they are now something of a collector’s item. They are very good instruments. Ibanez obviously has gone on to good things in the marketplace, and all is well.

And to make the most important point here, Ibanez put their name on these instruments, it was the wrong company’s design, but their logo, they were not trying to pass theirs as a Gibson or a Rickenbacker, just their version of those instruments.

I hope this clarifies the difference between these two terms.

One other point of significance is if a guitar store buys a no-name guitar that resembles a Strat, a Gibson or anything else, or a counterfeit, they are not allowed to call it a “Strat copy”. Even that is seen as infringining on the brand trademark.


May 6 2009

Martin Mandolin Serial Number Guide

This information and more can be found in our Gearwiki. Care to contribute your own knowledge?

This information is quoted directly from the Martin Guitar Co. website. I’ll add some other brief points for other resources soon. Bear in mind that this is the best information that we have at this point in time. If your mandolin does not match the information here and you would like more authentication information, you can likely call Martin directly and inquire.

Year

Last Serial No.

1895 23

1896 112

1897 153

1898 359

1899 577

1900 800

1901 881

1902 1171

1903 1348

1904 1507

1905 1669

1906 2026

1907 2357

1908 2510

1909 2786

1910 3098

1911 3431

1912 3847

1913 4162

1914 4462

1915 4767

1916 5007

1917 5752

1918 6370

1919 7237

1920 8761

1921 9627

1922 10245

1923 11020

1924 11809

1925 12520 Continue reading